Is the Glacier Express Worth It? A Swiss Guide’s Honest Take
The views are stunning, but the ride is long, crowded, and overpriced. Here’s why many travelers regret taking the Glacier Express... and what to do instead.

The Glacier Express is often marketed as the most scenic train ride in the world. With its glossy brochures, panoramic windows, and all-day itinerary, it certainly draws attention. But is it worth the time, cost, and tourist-heavy experience? For many travelers, especially those seeking authenticity and flexibility, the answer might be no.
As a Swiss guide who regularly leads scenic rail tours, here’s a clear, unfiltered breakdown of the Glacier Express experience and why a more flexible, authentic alternative might actually be the better choice.
What Is the Glacier Express?
The Glacier Express runs between Zermatt and St. Moritz, taking over 8 hours to complete the journey. It crosses 291 bridges, passes through 91 tunnels, and climbs over the Oberalp Pass at 2,033 meters. The route includes UNESCO-listed sections and is undeniably scenic.
But the reality on board is less glamorous: you’re locked into a long, crowded, and rigid schedule, sharing a cramped cabin with strangers for nearly an entire day.
Why the Glacier Express Often Disappoints
While the views are stunning, many travelers come away underwhelmed for several reasons:
- It’s a tourist conveyor belt: Entire carriages are packed with large groups and loud, sometimes unruly tourists. It feels more like a sightseeing theme park ride than a peaceful Swiss train journey.
- Long and inflexible: The full ride is over 8 hours long with no real opportunities to get off, walk around, or explore the towns en route.
- Confusing booking system: Many passengers are frustrated by needing pay to reserve their seats and then buy a separate train ticket for their journey. And when something goes wrong, they have to deal with slow customer service that often leaves them without a refund until after their holidays have ended.
- The service is hit-or-miss: Travelers often mention the poor level of service offered on the Glacier Express compared to the price. While most of the people who work for the company are kind and helpful, the dining service and customer care often leave customers dissatisfied.
- No fresh air: The panoramic windows don’t open, and in summer months the carriages can feel like greenhouses despite air conditioning.
- Overpriced dining: A basic lunch costs CHF 50 per person (not including drinks) and service is chaotic. Many passengers complain that the food is inauthentic, the service is slow, and disrupts major portions of the ride. One of my guests compared it to airplane food service, but worse!
The Best Part of the Route: the Rhine Gorge to the Oberalp Pass
Most of the Glacier Express’s breathtaking moments happen between Andermatt, Oberalp Pass, Disentis, and the Rhine Gorge.
These are the areas where the landscape shifts dramatically, the rivers carve deep gorges, and the alpine views hit their peak. Conveniently, they’re also sections you can enjoy without needing to ride the full 8-hour Glacier Express.
The Better Option: A Flexible Scenic Rail Tour on the Same Route
I used to take guests on the Glacier Express, but I listened to guests and improved my offering. That’s why at Hello Switzerland Tours, we offer private scenic rail tours along this same route, but with flexibility, freedom, and none of the mass-tourism hassle.
Why travelers prefer this alternative:
- Marvel at the same breathtaking views: glaciers, a gorge, and UNESCO heritage sites along the way
- Enjoy quieter, local trains with fewer tourists
- Stop and explore the alpine village of Disentis at your own pace
- Walk, photograph, or sit near open windows in vestibules for better views
- Your tickets and seat reservations are handled for you, so no stress or surprises
- Travel with a local guide who gives context, history, and tips along the way
- Customize your day based on energy, weather, or interest
You still get the iconic views, but you also experience the real Switzerland, the one that locals enjoy, and that lets you slow down when it matters.
When the Glacier Express Might Be Worth It
- You absolutely want to tick the box of riding a famous train
- You’re okay with spending most of your day sitting
- You’re booking Excellence Class for more space and service, but at a much higher cost (CHF 750!)
Even then, we recommend doing only a section of the route—not the full 8 hours.
Final Verdict
So, is the Glacier Express worth it?
Not really, unless your goal is to say you've done it. It’s expensive, crowded, inflexible, and touristy. The views are excellent, but they’re also accessible without the drawbacks.
If you're after a scenic, comfortable, and authentic experience with space to breathe, stretch, and explore, our private rail day trips are the way to go.
Explore Our Scenic Rail Tour →
Enjoy the best of the Glacier Express route without the crowds, chaos, or compromise. Let us handle the planning so you can focus on the view.