Is the Glacier Express Worth the Expense? A Swiss Guide’s Honest Take
The historic train route is undeniably gorgeous, but do you need to take the tourist train to enjoy it?
The Glacier Express calls itself the slowest express train in the world, and it has earned a reputation as one of Switzerland's must-do experiences. Panoramic windows, nearly eight hours of alpine scenery, a route that crosses more than 290 bridges and cuts through 91 tunnels: on paper, it sounds unmissable.
But after years of guiding private rail tours through the Swiss Alps, I get asked the same question again and again: is the Glacier Express actually worth it? The honest answer is that it depends on what you are looking for. Here is a straightforward breakdown of the pros and cons, along with what I would actually recommend if you want to see this same scenery without the tourist crowd.
The Pros: Where the Glacier Express is best
Unmatched point to point connections. If your goal is to get from Zermatt to St. Moritz (or the reverse) in one continuous, scenic ride, it offers the best train route.
Panoramic windows. The oversized windows deliver on the promise of uninterrupted alpine views, which is a big part of why this train became famous in the first place.
An onboard experience made for tourists. Beyond the scenery, there is real entertainment value: onboard souvenirs, food and drink service at your seat, free headphones with route commentary, and a printed guide to the sights along the way.
It's a bucket list ride. For a lot of travelers, the appeal is simply doing it: checking the box, taking the photos, and saying you rode one of the most famous trains in the world. That is a completely valid reason to book it, as long as you go in with the right expectations.
The Cons: Where the Glacier Express Falls Short
It's almost always packed. This is the single biggest complaint I hear. The train is packed with passengers and their luggage, and I've personally witnessed parents letting their children run up and down the aisles, people blasting music from their phones, and general bad tourist behavior. Add in travelers drinking and getting rowdy, and the peaceful alpine experience you pictured can feel more like a party bus with a view.
You barely get off the train. There's no real opportunity to step off and explore. Switzerland is full of beautiful villages and viewpoints along this route, and the Glacier Express simply doesn't give you the chance to experience any of them.
Your seat reservation is a one shot deal. You book a single, specific train, and that reservation isn't flexible. If you miss your departure, you can't just hop on the next one. You risk losing your connection to your final destination entirely.
It's not built for day trips. The Glacier Express genuinely shines on the full long haul route between Zermatt and St. Moritz, but that's an 8 hour journey one way, not a day's outing. If you're short on time or aren't traveling from one village to another, it's not a good option.
Onboard food is pricey and feels more airplane than alpine. Lunch on board typically runs about CHF 45 to 50, and it's not particularly authentic. Food carts pass through the cabin frequently, which means the car often smells like an airplane galley rather than a mountain train.
Tickets sell out fast. Seats fill up months in advance, which is part of why the train is so consistently crowded. Booking last minute, or even a few weeks out, often isn't an option.
The Verdict: A Better Way to See the Alps
If your priority is comfort, flexibility, and an authentic experience rather than the novelty of the train itself, there's a better way to see this exact part of Switzerland.
My Glacier Express Route tour follows the same legendary corridor, but on beautiful, comfortable regional trains rather than the crowded tourist express. In first class, our small group often has an entire train car to ourselves, with huge windows that open to admire the views and capture photos of the passing scenery without any glare.
You'll get to experience the Rhine Gorge and the Oberalp Pass at nearly 7,000 ft., but you'll also get to explore along the way. I'll take you to Chur, Switzerland's oldest city for a tour of its highlights and tasty delights. We'll also stop in Disentis, an alpine village high in the mountains that is home to a working monastery, where we'll enjoy a relaxed lunch at a cozy, authentic Swiss restaurant that serves local dishes, then spend the rest of the stop touring the monastery or browsing for souvenirs, something the standard Glacier Express never gives you the chance to do
As your private guide, I handle every detail of the logistics and share the local stories that bring the Alps to life along the way, so you can simply relax and enjoy the journey at your own pace. That is the difference between riding through Switzerland and actually experiencing it
Ready to see the Alps without the crowds? Get in touch to plan your private Glacier Express route tour.
Ready to tour Switzerland?
